It is surreal to read this in August 2021, as
Afghanistan falls to the Taliban.
This moment in time in Kabul is gone. There
will be no more shopping guides for Westerners in Kabul. Not
in this decade. Perhaps not again in my lifetime.
But I'm keeping this here, so that you can see what Kabul was like. And, I believe, could be again.
I think that one of the best ways to help Afghanistan if you happen to be in the country is to buy locally-produced items, particularly those produced by women. This isn't easy to do, given the growing security problems in the country. Buying locally-produced items is NOT worth unduly risking your life, so if a site below is cited by your security office as off-limits, then stay away; if you violate your agencies security guidelines, you aren't putting only yourself in danger.
Start with your guest house cook: for instance, are the eggs coming from Afghans, or from Pakistan? Ask your guest house manager. If Afghan eggs are more expensive, have a meeting with others at your guest house to see if they would be willing to pay more for locally-produced eggs. You would have to take steps to make sure the more expensive eggs would really be local, and that the extra expense is really valid.
Also think about office purchases: if a new desk is needed, is there a local producer that you could buy from, rather than buying a desk imported from Turkey or India? It's not always possible to buy locally-produced office items, but at least try to buy from a locally-managed importer.
Afghanistan is producing some very lovely items and is returning to some of its long-held artistic traditions that were disappearing under various regimes. I'm very proud to show friends the things I've bought in Afghanistan - some of them have even gone online trying to find Afghan items for themselves as a result. Shopping also is a great way to interact with local Afghans. Go to a store more than once, if nothing else than because items change so quickly. Once you have been in a store a couple of times, you will find warm welcomes every time you come - particularly if you bring your friends. Be sure you vary the times you go to a favorite shop; afternoon is better.
Remember to take your shoes off if others have done so when you enter a shop. Most shops are open on Fridays, but it's a good idea to call to make sure they are open. Many will stay open after 5 on weekdays if you call and tell them you are coming.
My favorite places to shop in Kabul:
For Afghan handicrafts and clothes
(shawls, table linens, purses, dolls, clothes, etc., with
traditional embroideries, weavings, and beading. Some jewelry as
well.)
Ganjini Showroom
Formerly DACAAR Sewing Centre, this is now a joint showroom for
Zardozi, Hadya Gallery (Nooristan Handicrafts), Zarif Design,
Boumi and Tarsian & Blinkey. These stores support Afghan
artisans and provide a huge amount of lovely things to choose
from, in a variety of price ranges. Many of the stores also take
specialty orders. I bought two small hand carved Nooristan wooden
boxes that collapse down to a fraction of their size, and they are
gorgeous. I've also been to the Hadya Gallery workshop, which is
down the street from where I work off Darulaman Road, and saw the
Afghan artisans working for myself on the Nooristan wooden items.
Added bonus at Zardozi: there's a large series of book shelves,
filled with mostly English used books (some French and German as
well); you can buy a used book for $5 and, if you return it, you
get half your money back. Good place to donate your used books as
well. The Zardozi complex is around the corner from Kabul City
Center and across from Nomaad, off Kolola Pushta Road.
Cell phone is 700287963
for the Nooristan Handicrafts shop nooristanhandicrafts@yahoo.com
Sozan
My favorite place for ornate bedding items, like pillow and bed
covers. Or to eat watermelon with the family that manages the
place out in their parking lot. Lots of really lovely things that
change frequently. All hand-made, supposedly, by Afghan
craftswomen. House #551, Street 13, Wazir Akbar Kahm Main Road,
opposite Roshan. Most drivers know where it is.
Phone is 799 833178
Rangeen Kaman Artisans
According to a flyer, this is owned by eight Afghan women. It's a
smaller shop than the Zardozi complex, but worth a visit. Has
hand-made Afghan dolls, the best I've found in Kabul.
Street # 5 Qala-i- Fateullah
Phone: 070015027
For custom-made leather goods
(purses, bags, shoes, wallets, etc.)
Ayoibi Handicraft Store
A small but robust store with a variety of ready-made bags,
purses, briefcases, shoes, and other leather items. You can also
bring in your specifications for a custom-made bag, purse, gun
holster - whatever. You can bring in fabric you would incorporated
into the design as well. The original store was destroyed when the
Indian Embassy on Jada Wazarat Dakela was bombed in July 2008.
Happily, the store owner, Mohammad Yaqub, survived. He's
re-opened, but the road is now closed, and because of the security
situation, the owner will come to you, at your guest house
or place of business, to display his ready-made items and to take
orders of custom items. The telephone number for English speakers
is 0777893764. The telephone number for Dari speakers is
0799343774. Mohammad Yaqub does not speak English, but if he comes
to your office or guest house to take the order, there will
probably be somebody available to translate. It's best for you to
have a picture, another bag or a drawing to provide guidance for
the design. If you need assistance with orders, have more
questions, or would like to see a brocure, email gundajon "at"
gmail.com (she speaks, German, English, Russian, and Dari).
For clothes
Ganjini, Sozan and Rangeen Kaman Artisans each have some women's clothes. Rangeen also has a nice selection of men's shalwa kameezes.
Awwsom
This is the best place in Kabul to get something tailored, IMO.
You can bring something from somewhere else, or, you can choose
from the clothes they already have and design something entirely
new. They can do anything - shirts, skirts, dresses, or suits, as
traditional or as contemporary or Westernized as you like. Awwsom
is on Karte Char. Take Darulaman road out of the Deh Mazang
traffic circle toward the palace ruins, make the first right at
the huge mosque and the German Automotive Academy Afghanistan. It
will be down a ways on the right. They also have a shop at one of
the ISAF markets. I got a jacket made here that is just all
that, as we say in the Southern USA... I can't wait to wear it
and, when people ask me where I got it, I can proudly say, "It's
from Afghanistan .
M. Hussain Andkhowi Handy Craft
This is a rather tiny, obscure shop, very hard to find. They do
have some handicrafts, but what's best about this place is its
Afghan-style coats. It's one of the better selections you will
find anywhere, for decent prices (if you know how to negotiate).
The coats are done mostly in the fashion of Northern tribes, but
you can also buy the famous President Karzai blue and
green-striped jackets. The coats don't close in the front and the
sleeves don't reach past your wrists - they aren't supposed to.
For women, they are fantastic to make your non-appropriate outfits
in Afghanistan suddenly quite appropriate! Don't be afraid to ask
to try on lots of different coats, which are pulled out from tight
stacks along the walls. I tried on probably 30 to find two I
wanted. I also was lucky enough to find a tunic as well. The guys
here don't speak English, but they know how to make a sale. They
can try to push some things on you that you don't want -- be
absolute about what you don't want to see, and they will back off.
The address is on Zarghuna Maidan, in Shar-e-Now. It's around the
corner from Le Bistro, and you can get to it by making your first
left off Chicken Street. They don't speak English, but their phone
number is 799 381796, and if they hear an English speaker on the
other end of the phone, they will try to find an English speaker
to talk to you.
For carpets
Najeeb Zarab Market
Qaway Markaz
This is a major Afghan carpet market, with several different
sellers in this one big complex, which makes it really easy to
compare different shops and prices. MUCH better deals than
anything on Chicken Street or the ISAF markets. Also, the way the
complex is set up makes you protected from the street. I've bought
carpets at the complex from Rasool Zada Andkhoie Carpets Co. Ltd.,
which is the first shop on the right if you come in on the
entrance to the complex on the left as you face the building.
For movies, shawls, unusual items or a nice day outside:
ISAF markets
I don't know how to tell you where these two markets are. One is
on the same street as the downtown UNAMA compound, and one is near
the US Embassy. The one near the UNAMA compound is the better of
the two, in my opinion - the market is mostly covered. The other
is worth going to at least once, but note that everything has been
out in the sun for a long time, including movies. These markets
are for military folks to be able to do some local shopping, so
security is VERY tight. If you take a taxi, you will probably have
to get out down the street and walk a block or so to either of
these you are planning on visiting. Have your passport or
organization ID - you will be checked before entering. Everything
is a bit over-priced, but it's a nice way to be able to walk
around outside in a safe environment, and you can find some
interesting items. If you buy a DVD that doesn't work, most places
will take it back. Decent jewelry prices, if you know how to
negotiate. Do NOT buy a carpet here - way overpriced! Also, for
the woodwork that is supposedly from Nooristan, go to Zardozi
instead (see above).
For groceries
My favorite grocery store was the one right across from Shahre Naw Park (the one with Park Cinema in it). I think it was called A-1 grocery story. They had a great selection, it was well-lit, the staff was super nice, and I felt safe there. I have no idea if it's still there.
Also know that, as of Summer 2010, Afghan Women Business Council (AWBC) and MEDA Afghanistan have a Farmers Market in Kabul that runs 2-3 times a week until the harvests are finished. The market is at the main gate of the Badam Bagh, from 9 am to 4 pm on selected days. A message from a MEDA representative said, "Please have your House Manager or cooks go and check our women's produce - they are of good quality and very clean! They are selling fresh produce from our women-farmers garden in Parwan - tomatoes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers and eggplants as well as the produce from the Badam Bagh gardens - broccoli, green beans, zucchini, sweet pepper, okra, green and red cabbage, etc." MEDA is assisting over 2,300 women in nine villages in Parwan province to produce, process, package and market vegetables in villages and provincial centers. And you would help tremendously by getting your house manager to buy at least some of your guest house food from there.
Also see Suggestions for Women Aid Workers in Afghanistan
The personal opinions expressed on this page are solely those of Ms. Cravens, unless otherwise noted.