Almost as soon as we finished last year's motorcycle trip through Jasper, Banff, Kootenay and Glacier National Park, we started thinking about where our next trip would be. For both of us, the choice was obvious: Yellowstone! It was on the agenda for that last trip, actually, but by the time we were near enough to it to go, the only way we could have done it would have been to just have driven through in one day, and I wasn't willing to do that. When I visit a national park, I want to actually visit it, camp in it, go to visitor's centers, hike a little bit...
As usual, we left a day late on this trip; we were supposed to leave on Friday, June 10, but we were both slammed with work the entire two weeks before. In fact, we were up past midnight, packing and making other preparations. It's never a good way to start a trip, but we just had no other option. Luckily, I had booked the dog sitter to come on Friday, so Albi was taken care of while we ran around like chickens.
This time, I followed my pack list, rather than trying to pack from memory. And, therefore, this was the first trip where I did not forget anything substantial!
We drove around Mt. Hood, which still had huge mounds of snow piled up in some parking lots from various snow plows during the winter and spring. We stopped in always-windy Dalles for Frappicino's, then headed across the Columbia RIver on the steel cantilever truss toll bridge - which is dreadful! Not good for motorcycles! And there is still a toll, despite what Wikipedia says. We entered Washington state and turned right, driving along state road 14 and then on state road 142. After the bridge, it was a gorgeous drive - perfect for motorcycles, with windy roads, good surface conditions, and lovely scenary.
Because of our late start, our only option for camping was Brooks Memorial State Park, north of Goldendale, Washington. We also stayed at on our first night of our Canada adventure last year; Stefan was hoping we would at least make it to Lewis and Clark Trail State Park (we've stayed there twice on two previous trips; it's kind of become "our" park). Our second night was at the Pink House Recreation Site camp site, managed by BLM, on US Highway 12 in Orofino, Idaho, along the Clearwater river. It's great that they have dedicated tent camping, but because it's gravel-covered, we put the tent up on the grass instead (gravel is NOT good for tents!). It's a great camp site. It was one of the few nights it rained. There is tons of camp sites, public and private, along US Highway 12.
Our third night, we weren't feeling well - we ate something that did NOT agree with either of us - so we stayed at the Travellers Rest Cabins and RV Park in Darby, Montana, right on US Highway 93. The next day greeted us with beautiful scenery and weather.
After turning off to Montana State Road 43 and traveling through Chief Joseph Pass and Beaverhead National Forest, and having a brief visit at the Big Hole National Battlefield where the Nez Perce made a last stand, we came upon a real (not staged) roundup by real (not pretend) cowboys on horseback, supported by a few cattle dogs.
Montana State Road 43 on our way to Yellowstone.
In Wisdom, Montana, we changed from state road 43 to state road 278, and the route got even more beautiful.
In Montana, state road 278 is truly beautiful. This is an example of a road that seems to go on forever. This road was actually more winding than this most of the time.
We were shocked to find Nevada City was a well-preserved "Wild West" city. Sadly, we didn't have time to go through the museum and into the old town in the back. We would love to go back here! One of the suites at the Nevada City Hotel in Nevada City, Montana.
Virgina City, Yellowstone at last Full camp sites Buffalo buffalo oh my god buffalo Crowd at camp site Wall of Snow Camp site trade First night Shoveling Beautiful weather Southern route First geysers and mudpots We were beyond excited to see a Grizzly Bear, as were the dozens of other people gathered on the side of the road near Fisherman's Bridge to see this huge animal. We heard later that he/she hung out there for a few days. Many burned forests geysers in the distance on the shore of Yellowstone Lake Old Faithful at Yellowstone National Park. We were among a huge crowd of people waiting for the geyser. The anticipation for the event was thick... At last, Old Faithful at Yellowstone National Park erupts, just 10 minutes late of its prediction (it can also start 10 minutes early of the predicted time). The people next to us were vocal in their disappointment in the event - Jayne, on the other hand, cheered loudly for it. We were among a huge crowd of people waiting for the geyser. After watching Old Faithful erupt at Yellowstone National Park, we took a couple of hours to hike and view the geysers, hot springs and other geothermal sites nearby. Each site is absolutely unique. There are walkways through the vast area, and it's super important not to get off of them, not only to protect yourself but also to protect the incredibly fragile environments. It's also super important to not throw anything in these, including coins. These areas are teaming with microscopic life, the kind we may someday find on another planet. After watching Old Faithful erupt at Yellowstone National Park, we took a couple of hours to hike and view the geysers, hot springs and other geothermal sites nearby. Israli couple Windy In addition to this oh-so-blue bird, we also saw a yellow-bellied marmot. Iconic yellow bus supper in our snow cave Moose drool Buffalo (bison) versus Mini For our first full day in Yellowstone, we toured the Southern route of Yellowstone (the bottom part of the figure eight road). For our second full day, we went with the Northern loop. An offshoot road up one of the mountains was closed because of snow. He or she was right off the road on our trip around the Northern loop, before Tower Falls. There was law enforcement everywhere, not happy that I stopped to take a photo. Petrified Tree Mammoth Hot Springs isn't just a site of hot springs - it's also a town. In fact, it's the park headquarters. And there were a lot of Elk everywhere. This calf is right next to the post office For our second full day, we toured the Northern loop, making Mammoth Hot Springs our focus for the day. This is Liberty Cap, created by a now-defunct hot spring. It was named such per its resemblance to the peaked knit cap symbolizing freedom and liberty during the French Revolution (I doubt most Americans know that, otherwise they would rename it). or our second full day, we toured the Northern loop, making Mammoth Hot Springs our focus for the day. And it was AMAZING. The springs are ever changing - a photo next year of this site will not look the same - the spring may even "move" elsewhere! Earthquakes cause the springs to move where they pour out of the earth, which means the landscape of Mammoth Hot Springs is ever-changing, not only year-to-year, but sometimes even overnight! When the springs "move", they leave behind dry, very fragile travertine. The highlight of the drive through the Upper Terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone is the Orange Spring Mound, which has slowly consumed a few trees. It could stop at the next Earthquake, with the spring moving elsewhere and creating a new "living" sculpture. Norris Geyser Basin, When Cistern Spring empties or the water level lowers, it means Steamboat Springs is about to erupt. June 16, On our third night in Canyon Village camp site at Yellowstone National Park, it SNOWED. But the Aldi tent held up great. Our sleeping bags weren't enough to get us happily through the night - it got below freezing in the night! After three nights at Yellowstone, it was time to move on, but we took our time. Near our camp site at Canyon Village are these amazing falls, and the "Grand Canyon of Yellowstone" - we guess this yellow stone is where the park gets its name. After three nights in Yellowstone, as we headed out of of the park via the Southern loop, we stopped for a few more geysers and hot springs. At this site, someone said, "Hey, look at that wolf!" and I looked up and, indeed, saw it - very large, still with its white winter coat - running away. Sorry we don't have a photo of that. After three nights in Yellowstone, as we headed out of of the park via the Southern loop, we stopped for a few more geysers and hot springs. These were some of our favorite - they were pink mud pots, and they made a lot of noise! On our way out of Yellowstone, we (and many others) stopped to watch a coyote browsing the landscape. On our way out of Yellowstone, we stopped at this ice-covered lake. On our way out of Yellowstone and into Grand Teton National park. After freezing the night before in Yellowstone, we decided to get a cabin in Grand Teton National park - I think it was at Colter Bay Village. It was time to service the bike - shortening and lubricating the chains and otherwise checking the bikes. Couldn't leave anything out side, because there was a Grizzly Bear and her cubs about (we didn't see them). We were very happy to have a shower that night. Bear warning sign in Grand Teton National Park. "Due to bear activity area beyond this sign CLOSED to all travel" "Removal of this sign may result in INJURY to others and is punishable by law." Meeting Keith in Jackson. He touched Harrison Ford's feet! After an intense day of riding through very windy conditions, and then some rain, we decided to wimp out a third time for a room. In addition, I still was not feeling well. We stayed at the Lost River Motel in Arco, the only town around, and it turned out to be a great choice - very comfortable, affordable rooms, and a very friendly, bike-friendly owner. Jayne loves motels more than hotels - she finds them more friendly, more customer-focused, and more appropriately-priced than hotels, with things you actually need in the room. Old Faithful Ale Arco submarine Craters of the Moon Brunneau Road construction Bikers in Jordan Seneca Chinese herbal and goods shop in John Day John Day national monument See pictures from this and other travels.
Also see:
For Women Who Travel By Motorcycle (or want to)
Advice for Women Motorcycle Travelers: Packing
Advice for Women Motorcycle Travelers: Transportation and Accommodations Choices
Advice for Women Motorcycle Travelers: Suggested Books and Web Sites
From Oregon to the "Lost Coast" of Northern California (Horizons Unlimited 2010 California meeting) - August 2010
Oh, Canada...Two-Week Canada/USA Tour by Motorcycles (Oregon, Washington, British Columbia, Alberta, Montana, Idaho) - September 2010
Oregon, Idaho, Yellowstone, & More - June 2011
Crater Lake, Oregon 2011 (photos only)
Disclaimer
Any activity incurs risk. The author assumes no responsibility for the use of information contained within this document.
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